OUR FAQS

Your gift card will be sent to your email once it's purchased. Our gift cards can be redeemed by using the code that was emailed to you at checkout or by using the QR code sent to you. Gift cards are valid for one year after purchase.

You can pay through credit card (Visa or Mastercard), Account2Account (choose credit card for this option), Afterpay or Laybuy at the checkout.

If you are unable to shop online, we can absolutely help you with an offline order! Please email sales@nzcandlesupplies.nz with your order, contact and shipping details. Offline orders will be processed after the payment has been received.

If you have not received an email about your order in your inbox/spam folders and your money has been deducted, it is most likely that your browser was closed or refreshed too soon. If this has happened, please email
sales@nzcandlesupplies.nz

All store credit is sent via email. This email will include a code that can be used at checkout.

Once your order has been picked and packed, an email with a tracking link will be sent to you. If you did not receive a tracking link within 24 hours, please contact us. Once you have received your tracking number, your order is in the hands of the courier company, therefore you will need to follow up with the courier company if you have any queries about the location or delivery of your order. We are unable to track your order once it has been collected by the courier company. We advise you to check your junk/spam folder for email updates about the location of your order. 

We try our best to process orders within 24 hours or order! Orders may take longer to process during peak season periods like Christmas and Mother's Day. If you want your order to arrive on time, we recommend you plan it well in advance. Rural delivery usually takes an extra day or two.

All our orders are shipped from our warehouse in Auckland, New Zealand.

We currently only ship within New Zealand and Australia.

The courier may have stored your parcel in a safe place if there were no instructions. Please have a look around and if you can't find it contact the courier company who should be able to help you locate your delivery.

Shipping is calculated automatically when you register your details on the website and add products to your cart.
Shipping is calculated via your postcode and weight of your goods. Freight prices are set by the freight companies, and we do not have anything to do with them.

Shipping prices are calculated by the freight companies themselves so we cannot offer discounts on shipping.

Unfortunately, we do not offer express shipping options. Our shipping options are based on location and weight of your
order.

All our products are available to be sent to anywhere in New Zealand and Australia. Please select the location, particularly the region that you are shipping to. If you’re still struggling to place your order, please contact us at sales@nzcandlesupplies.nz

Yes we do! If you require further information than what we have in our FAQ section, please call or text us on 027 269 5441. Please note, our customer services are active between 8am - 4:30pm, Monday to Friday.

Once you have placed an order with us, you will receive an email confirmation with your order details. Please check your spam/junk folder in case it is not in your inbox.

We may not be able to add to your order during busy periods. Please email info@nzcandlesupplies.nz with your order number and what you would like to add, so that we can check and get back to you.

All orders will include a copy of your tax invoice. If you do not receive one, please email sales@nzcandlesupplies.nz

We do not offer bulk discounts. However, if you purchase larger quantities of ingredients like; candle wax and fragrance oils, they do work out to be more cost effective.

We do not offer samples. We recommend buying the smallest size available to test before committing to large batches.

If your parcel was damaged in transit, please take a picture so that we may file a claim with the courier company. Email info@nzcandlesupplies.nz with your order details, and we will take care of it.

In some cases, orders are shipped out in parts due to the size or weight restrictions. Please look at the label on your package, it should indicate, as an example "Box 1 of 2" which means the other parcel is on the way.

If we have missed some items on your order, please email info@nzcandlesupplies a picture of the invoice and items you received, so we can sort this out for you.

If you believe we have made a mistake with your order, please contact us at nfo@nzcandlesupplies a picture of the invoice and items you received, so we can sort this out for you.

We do not run wholesale accounts. All orders need to be made and processed through our website. If you are unable to
shop online, we can help you with an offline order. Please email sales@nzcandlesupplies.nz with your order, contact and shipping details. Offline orders will be processed after the payment has been received.

Unfortunately, we cannot amend an order after it has been completed. We can cancel your order and refund you before it has been processed. However please note it may take a few days to process the refund.

If the code is invalid, it is most likely that you have input the code incorrectly, or the promotion has ended. Please refer to the advertised dates of the promotion. If you believe that you are following the terms of the promotion, please contact us.

At checkout there will be an option to input a discount code before purchasing. This will automatically add the discount amount to your order total.

We are an online store only. You can place an order at any time of the day. Our team processes orders between 8am - 4:30pm, Monday to Friday.

If you scroll to the bottom of the last email you've received, you can choose to update your preferences or unsubscribe from the list.

Please make sure that you have created an account with us by using the forgot password option. If you have not, you can simply use the email address from your past orders to create a new account, this will automatically generate your order history.

If you want to change your email address or contact details, please email sales@nzcandlesupplies.nz and we will investigate this for you.

We do not allow anyone to use our photos or product descriptions, even if we are given credit for them. However, you are
welcome to base your descriptions on the information we provide. If you would like to make use of information like fragrance notes or ingredients lists, please rewrite them in a way that makes sense for your company. Our photos and videos are either taken in-house or purchased for our use and all descriptions are written by our Marketing Team, therefore are our property exclusive to our company. We want you to be creative with your imagery and descriptions, make it your own branding!

Your health is very important to us and because of this we will not accept Fragrance Oils, Essential Oils, Hydrosols, Wax, Candle Dye, Wicks, Butters, Melt and Pour & Liquid Soap, Carrier Oils and Cosmetic ingredients back unless they are damaged due to the risk of contamination. We take the responsibility of your health hygiene and safety requirements very seriously. Should you want to return a product, claim for a refund, a credit or a replacement product to be sent out, because of one the following reasons:

- The product does not match the description or specifications on the website.
- You received the wrong product.
- Your product was damaged in transit by the courier company. Please contact us within one week of receiving the goods. If your goods were damaged in transit, we will require photos of the damaged goods emailed to info@nzcandlesupplies.nz so we
can file a claim with the courier company. Often the courier company will pick up the damaged goods. Do not dispose of damaged or broken stock until advised as this may affect your replacement. We will ship replacements as soon as we
receive the photos.
- Your order was lost in transit by the courier company.
- Your delivery was incomplete, it was left without a signature, and your goods are no longer there. We will send you a return courier ticket to have the goods returned to us. Please pack them up well, so they can be safely returned to us :) Refunds will be made the same way the initial order was made.

All returns must be made within 7 days of receipt of goods. Please email info@nzcandlesupplies.nz to advise any problems so we can fix them quickly. We certainly don’t want you to be unhappy.

We have a range of candle making kits that will help you learn how to make candles. If you are a beginner, we recommend
purchasing one of our ultimate candle making starter kits: https://nzcandlesupplies.nz/collections/candle-making-kits.
We also have starter packs available with all the essential tools you need for making candles: https://nzcandlesupplies.nz/products/starter-pack.

We currently do not offer this service. We have many tutorial videos available on our website and social media platforms to assist you with your creations.

Yes! We have a range of candle dyes that can be added to candles made from any wax type. Mica powders can also be added to candles; however, they can only be added to wooden wick candles as the powder can clog our cotton and eco wicks.

It's up to you how much you want to add to achieve your desired colour. To reach a deeper colour we recommend using 5g per g of candle wax. We offer chips of candle dye rather than liquid. Make sure the dye is added in at around 60 degrees Celsius to melt into the wax without burning the candle dye. Mix this in throughout to avoid any dark patches of dye in the candle.

Yes mica powder works well in wax melts as there’s no wick that can be clogged. Mica added a lovely sparkle as the tea light heats up the wax, we highly recommend this.

There are many factors that can influence the outcome of your homemade candles. Fragrance oils can impact a candle, as thicker scented oils require you to wick up to get a hotter burn. It's important to note that the size of the wick may need to change when using different fragrance oils. Also, the room temperature can affect your candles. If the room is too cold, then you can have more issues with wetspots and frosting because your candle will set very quickly. We’ve introduced weekly tips and tricks to candle making on our social media platforms. We recommend going through these to find out why your candle oesn’t look right. Don’t stress!
Practice makes perfect.

Weigh the completed candle on a scale, before it has been burned. The weight of the candle jar needs to be subtracted to calculate the true weight of the candle. Then, light the candle. Leave the candle burning for 4 hours. Blow out the candle after the 4 hours then allow to cool until hard again. The candle needs to be weighed again, removing the weight of the candle jar. You will now have the post-burn weight. Minus the post-burn weight from the weight of the unburned candle. Divide this figure by the amount of time the candle was burned for. You will now have the hourly burn rate. To calculate the total number of hours the candle will burn for, you will need to divide the initial weight of the candle by the hourly burn rate. Amount Consumed (Initial weight - post-burn weight) ÷ Time burnt in hours = Hourly Burn Rate Initial Weight (minus weight of container) ÷ Hourly Burn Rate = Burn Time. Please note this is only an approximate burn-time. Factors such as wick sizing, amount of fragrance oil and wax type can alter how fast the wax burns. We advise that you test your burn-time before creating candles in large batches.

Our warning labels are available to purchase here. These are required to be on the bottom of your candles for safety reasons. The instructions include:

- Failure to follow safety instructions may result in fire, injury or smoke damage.
- Never burn your candle when 1cm of wax remains at the bottom of the glass candle jar.
- Burn your candle for only three hours at a time, extinguish, let wax cool, trim wick to 1cm and relight.
- Avoid burning in draughty areas, near open windows or doorways, as a change in temperature may cause the glass to crack or shatter.
- Never leave a burning candle unattended and always burn on a stable flat heat-proof surface.
- Keep away from curtains, flammable objects, children and pets.

There are certain terms that are necessary to know when learning to make candles, they are frequently used in our tutorials and explanations. The key terms are as followed:

• Wax pool: This is the size of the melted wax.
• Burn time: Is the amount of time it takes for the candle to be burnt all the way to the bottom of the vessel. It is important to calculate the burn-time of your candles, so your customers know what to expect. Cold throw and hot throw: “Cold Throw” is how a candle smells before it has been lit. The cold throw will develop its scent over the cure time. “Hot Throw” refers to how a candle smell while it is lit.
• Mushrooming: Cotton wicks can get a build up at the top that is called mushrooming. This build up could be caused by the wick size being too big, and amount of fragrance oils. If your wick looks like it's mushrooming, cut the end off fore re-lighting.
• Tunnelling: This is a common term used when the wax pool does not reach the edge of the vessel before blowing out on the first burn. This means the wax burns down the middle of the candle and leaves the wax memory with a ring like shape, with excess wax around the rim of the vessel. Candle tunnelling can be caused by using a wick that is too small for the vessel. Incorrect burning, especially on the first burn can also cause tunnelling. The best way to avoid this is burning a candle until the wax pools to the edge of the vessel on the first burn.

These are called candle sinkholes. They are produced when the wax has cooled down too quickly in the vessel. A way to prevent this is through heating the vessel before pouring the wax or allowing the wax to cool slightly. When they appear, an easy fix can be achieved by using a heat gun and something thin to poke holes into the wax.

Our soy wax is 100% natural. This is a by-product of natural wax and doesn’t affect the performance of the candle. Unfortunately, this problem is out of your control when making soy-wax candles. It occurs when the rate of cooling is inconsistent. For a smooth candle, a heat-gun can be used to melt the top of the wax, this will set with a smooth top.

Frosting is a crystal-like layer that forms on the surface of natural waxes. To minimise the effects of frosting, certain things you can do are:

- Mix the melted wax slowly before pouring into the vessel to reduce the amount of air bubbles.
- Warm the container slightly before pouring the melted wax.
- Pour the wax at a lower temperature to reduce the wax cooling too quickly.
- Non-coloured candles (no added dyes or colourants) will reduce the noticeability of the frosting.

As we know, all natural waxes can have many imperfections when it's set. No need to worry, these are all aesthetic and can be controlled through a few methods as follows:

Avoid over-stirring as this can create air bubbles in the wax as it sets. Heat your candle container slightly before pouring the melted wax to reduce the speed of the wax setting.

Tap the candle vessel slightly once the wax has been poured to release any air bubbles.

Use a heat gun on top of the candle once it's cured. Slightly melt the top layer of the candle, this will result in the candle top drying smooth.

There are many reasons why you may have a low scent throw. Firstly, it can come down to the amount of fragrance oil you add. Another reason may be a lack of cure time. We recommend a cure time of 24 – 48-hour cure time for paraffin wax candles and a 1 – 2-week cure time for soy wax candles. Alternatively, the low scent throw can be caused by the room size it's burning in and the amount of airflow. We recommend burning candles in a smaller room with a small amount of airflow to increase your scent-throw.

This can happen when the candles are exposed to direct sunlight. Jars with lids are less prone to this issue happening. Vanilla fragrance oils are known to turn candles yellow; we recommend avoiding using too much vanilla fragrance if you don’t want discolouration.

Choosing the right wick is a very important part of your candle making process. It all depends on the diameter and shape of your jar. We have created a wick guide HERE for you to use as a reference when selecting the right wick. It is important to test before committing too large batches. The right wick for you also comes down to your preference on aesthetic. Take a look at part two of our ‘your start up business guide’ blog series for more information on choosing which wick works best for your aesthetic.

We offer a range of cotton, eco and wooden wicks. These are all in a range of shapes and sizes to suit different aesthetics and container sizes. Watch below for a video of all our wick options to decide which is best for you.

Our cotton wicks are made of 100% cotton and are finished with a soy wax coating. This makes that wick more rigid, therefore is easier to place into the container. It doesn’t affect the performance of the wick. The Eco wicks are made from a cotton and paper blend with a soy wax coating. Our wooden wicks do not come coated in any wax. However, if you want the wax to burn quicker in a wooden wick candle, be sure to pour the hot wax directly over the wick. They are made from 100% natural wood.

Before pouring the wax into your vessel, attach a wick stickum to the metal base of your wick. Place this into the centre of your vessel. We have three wick stickum options available.

The wick should be cut to 1/2 cm before lighting. This is important for candle care to reduce any soot coming off the wick and prevents the cotton wicks from mushrooming. The wick needs to be cut before each use. A wick trimmer tool is the most effective way for the wick to be cut, shop here. Watch below for the full overview of why the wick needs to be cut.

The wick should be extinguished using a candle snuffer. This is the most effective way to extinguish the flame as it prevents debris from falling into the wax pool and avoids any wax splatters from blowing out the wick. Another benefit is the minimal soot that mixes into the wax pool, keeping the scent clean. If the candle jar comes with a glass lid, the wick can be blown out by putting the lid back on.

Double wicked candles can be beneficial in certain cases to produce a more efficient burn. A few reasons why you may want to double wick your candles are:

If you have an oddly shaped candle jar (not the standard rounded candle jar). To utilise all the wax in the jar, particularly reaching the corners of a square jar. Burn tests should be conducted to test the burn time, efficiency and effectiveness of your double wick. It also needs to be safe for your customers, making sure that the wicks aren’t too close to the edge of the jar and evenly spaced.

Divide the diameter of your candle jar in half and select the appropriate wick for that burn diameter (you can find the appropriate wick size for your diameter on our wick calculate). The two diameters combined should equal the total diameter of the jar. Place the two wicks in your vessel halfway between the middle and the outside edge.

There are many reasons why a wick will not stay lit. Some reasons include:

- The wick size being too big or small for the diameter of your vessel.
- When additives are in the candle such as mica powder, the wick can clog. To fix this, use less additives or change the wick to a wooden wick.
- The wick was too long or too short when initially lit. The wick size needs to be no longer than 1cm.

No, we do not have these available. Our wicks are pre-tabbed.

Each candle wax has its own properties. We offer soy, coconut, palm and paraffin wax.

• Our Natural Soy Wax – Super Creamy is blended from 100% pure soybeans. This is a very easy to use creamy soy wax, with standard soy wax burn time. Resistance to blooming / frosting / white spots. Benefits include: Typically, 250mls burns at 50 hours. Blends well with other waxes. Perfect for making candles in fine china and smaller containers as this soy wax won't cause too much heat and stress on the vessel. Skin safe temperature great for massage candles.
• Our Pure Coconut Candle Wax is made from cold-pressed Coconut meat, the same way Coconut Oil is extracted. It then goes through a hydrogenation process, where coconut oil is transformed into a creamy white coloured candle wax. Benefits include: Incredible scent throw. If you’re looking for a candle that smells amazing this is it!! Burns slower and cleaner than soy wax, which means you will have a longer lasting candle. Made from a sustainable, easily renewable crop. Works well with essential oils and
  fragrance oils. Vegan. Blends well with other waxes.
• Our Vegan Palm Wax is a natural vegetable wax derived from the fruit of the Palm tree, it is an eco-friendly wax that burns cleanly. If you are new to palm wax or a newbie candle maker, click HERE to learn more about our Vegan Palm Candle Wax.
• This is seriously the most fun you’ll ever have making candles. The combinations of coloured micas, dyes, fragrance and candle jars are limitless. There are a few things that you need to be aware of when making paraffin candles, and I have outlined them HERE with the instruction guide.

Massage candles are like normal soy candles, except the wax can be used for a massage once warmed. The wax consists of all-natural oils and nourishing ingredients, including Shea butter and almond oil. We have candle jars available with a pouring spout particularly for massage candles.

Soy wax is the most used wax for massage candle making. Our super creamy pure soy wax has a lower melting point and is the only soy wax that is smooth and skin safe.

A simple way to measure how much wax you need is by multiplying the grams needed per container by the number of candles you wish to make. Once you calculate this, divide it by 1000 to calculate the number of kilograms of wax you need. For example, if you were making 20 candles in our macaron glass jars. These jars quantity to fill is roughly 90g. 20 x 90 =
18000. 18000 / 1000 = 1.8 kg. This means you’ll need 1.8kg of wax to fill the 20 candles. Our wax calculator is available on our website, this can be used to calculate the amount of wax you’ll need.

There are many different methods that you can use to melt candle wax. These methods are as followed:

• Stove top: All wax types can be melted on a stove top in a pot. Heat the wax at a medium heat, stirring continuously until
  it reaches the desired temperature of your wax.
• Microwave: Soy and coconut wax can be microwaved in a microwave safe bowl. Heat in 30 second increments to control the temperature. Heat to desired temperature. Paraffin and palm wax cannot be heated in the microwave due to the high melting point.
• Commercial grade Melter: All waxes can be melted this way. They are beneficial for makers creating candles at a large scale. They will regulate at your desired temperature.

• Soy wax has a melting point of 47 degrees and can be heated up to 70 degrees. The wax should be poured into the candle container between 48 - 52 degrees.
• Coconut wax has a melting point of 38 - 42 degrees and has a heating range of 65 - 70 degrees. The wax should be poured into the container at 40 - 46 degrees.
• Palm wax has a melting point of 53 degrees. It can be heated up to 80 degrees and poured into the jar at 70 degrees.
• Paraffin wax has a melting point of 56 - 8 degrees and can be heated up to 90 degrees. The pouring temperature is around 75 degrees.

Our candle waxes have gone through a hydrogenation process where the oil is transformed into wax. This process strips the scent out of the oil leaving the wax with no scent.

• Our Natural fragrance oils are International Fragrance Association (IFRA), compliant and certified. They are made with a MINIMUM of 80% natural plant-based ingredients and essential oils. Propylene glycol (a synthetic plant-based fixative) is what holds and ‘fixes’ our fragrances, ensuring a long-lasting scent in cosmetics, soaps and candles. PHTHALATE FREE, Vegan and cruelty FREE. Our natural fragrances are completely oil based and are suitable to use in the oil stages of cosmetic manufacturing and soaps (after trace formation). Due to their low vaporisation/boiling point, natural fragrance oil should be added to your candle creations at the lowest possible temperature - when the soy wax starts to cloud/solidify.
• Our concentrated fragrance oils are International Fragrance Association (IFRA), compliant and certified. They are made from natural, naturally derived, and synthetic ingredients. They are non-toxic and vegan. Fragrance oils have no therapeutic benefits. They DO NOT contain UV inhibitors, phthalates nor paraffin, mineral or palm oil.

Disclaimer: Our fragrances are unique to NZCS. A fragrance from another company with the same fragrance name, does not
mean you will get the same scent. We always recommend purchasing a 30ml sample to test first. It is very important to thoroughly test all fragrances for suitability before committing to larger batches as different fragrance oils perform differently. Some fragrance oils may discolour wax and soap due to their unique colour and vanillin content, and their natural reaction to other ingredients. Therefore, the fragrance is not at fault, and NZCS takes no responsibility for the quality and finish of products made. Suitable for cosmetics, soaps, candles, diffusers and bath bombs. Skin safe at 2-3%.

We have some safety tips for you to use whenever you’re working with fragrance oils:

• Work in a well-ventilated area.
• Use protective equipment such as eye goggles and gloves.
• Containers used to weigh or hold fragrance oil should not be reused for food prep.
• Clean up spills immediately.

Fragrance oil usually has a shelf-life of around one year. Factors that can dictate the shelf-life are temperature and air exposure. We recommend storing in a cool, dry location to maximise the shelf-life of your fragrance oils. If you’ve kept your fragrance oils for over a year, it is important to do a test candle before committing to a large batch.

Yes! We highly recommend mixing fragrances to create your own unique and interesting scent. We recommend testing before committing to large batches to ensure you are happy with the fragrance outcome.

Calculate the desired fragrance load you’d like for your fragrance creation. For example, let's say you want 10% fragrance load. If you have 1kg of melted soy wax, you’ll calculate 0.10 x 1000 = 100ml. This means you would require 100ml of fragrance oil to achieve this fragrance load.

Our fragrance oils work well with all our wax options. There is a different fragrance load for different waxes.

The fragrance load differs for each wax type:

• Soy wax: 8-10% of total weight
• Coconut wax: 8-10% of total weight
• Palm wax: 6-8% of total weight
• Paraffin wax: 4-6% of total weight

Due to waxes having different melting points, fragrance oils need to be added in at different temperatures.

• Soy wax: 53 - 54 degrees
• Coconut wax: 40 - 46 degrees
• Palm wax: 70 - 72 degrees
• Paraffin wax: 85 degrees

Soap: 25 - 30 ml of fragrance oil and natural fragrance oil per 1kg of soap base .

Diffusers: 25 ml of fragrance oil per 100ml of diffuser base.

Body care: we recommend about 2-4% of the total weight should be fragrance oil. This makes the products skin-safe.

Our fragrance oil is highly concentrated and needs to be diluted with a product such as wax, soap base or diffuser base for the scent to smell as described and for you to achieve the best result. Please follow our instructions for determining the fragrance load that works best for you. If it is your first time trying a scent, we recommend buying in smaller sizes before committing to large batches to ensure you are happy with the fragrance. If you believe we have sent you the wrong fragrance, please follow our returns policy so we can get this sorted for you.

Yes, all our fragrance oils and natural fragrance oils are phthalate free.

Some components of fragrance oil can freeze in the colder months. This can cause the oils to separate. We recommend storing your fragrance oils in a cool dry place for preservation.

All our fragrance oils come in the same container type with different sized bottles based on the size you order. Our images are only for representation, please don’t expect different bottles for each fragrance oils. For example, our dragon's blood fragrance oil does not come in the bottle pictured with a dragon on the cap.

We offer rare and precious essential oils along with the staple favourites like lavender, tea tree, peppermint, chamomile, eucalyptus, geranium, rosemary, thyme, lemon and clove. Our 100% Pure, Therapeutic Grade Essential Oils are sourced from certified and ethical producers world-wide. We spare no effort to maintain the high quality and purity of our essential oils and other products. MSDS are available on the product page. All our essential oils are grown and distilled with integrity and care, (not distilled from GMO raw materials.) They are free from pesticides or chemical fertilisers.

We do not recommend ingestion of essential oils. Some essential oils can contain potentially toxic compounds. We recommend using essential oils within products that will not be ingested for aromatic purposes.

Most essential oils are skin safe; however, some must be diluted before being suitable for going onto skin. Our essential oil product pages outline the details of the properties of each product.

There are so many options on what you can do with essential oils! They can be used in many fragrances and personal care including candles, soaps, diffusers, wax melts, bath bombs, body washes and so much more.

We recommend adding around 5% of the total weight for candle making. Diffusers require slightly more essential oils for a strong fragrance, we recommend about 20-30 drops. Soap making requires less fragrance compared to candles. You can use up to 2.5% however we recommend around 1.5% of the total soap weight. Other skincare such as body butters, moisturisers, bath bombs and so on require about the same amount of essential oil for a nice fragrance.

Yes, our clamshell soy melt moulds are made from PVC which is 100% recyclable. We recommend these moulds to be single use, then recycled after use.

Yes, our clamshell moulds can be used for melt and pour soaps.

Our tea light holders with the oil burner are used by lighting a tea light below the wax melts to melt the wax on the wax tray. This is an effective way to diffuse your fragrances. Our clamshell moulds
are used to make the wax cubes to melt in an oil burner. We recommend adding around 2-3 cubes of wax. Remember to have fun with this! You can add multiple fragrance cubes to create a unique scent. To clean out the wax from the oil burner, we recommend waiting for the wax to set into a puck shape. Once it's at the point of being still warm but mostly set, the wax should be able to slide out of the dish. If it has already set, light the tea light from below, allow to melt for around a minute so just the bottom edges melt. This will enable you to slide the wax puck out easily. Once most of the wax has been removed, wipe out with a paper towel. To sanitise and remove scent, spray with isopropyl alcohol and wipe out with a cloth.

Pillar candles work well with certain wax types and blends. We have had success with our paraffin wax. Other wax types have the tendency to crack when taken out of the mould.

We offer two body care kits including a body butter kit and a hand and body moisturiser kit. For these kits we recommend using a whisk to whip the bases up and combine the fragrance oils well. We also recommend using a silicone spatula for transferring the mixture into jars.

Colourants such as mica powder can be added into body-care to add colour and shimmer. Fragrance including fragrance oils, natural fragrance oils and essential oils should also be added for aromatic purposes. Extra butters can be added into skin and hair care for hydrating, nourishing properties without the greasy feeling.

Melt and pour soap bases are reasonably simple to use. Most equipment you need is already in your home. What you’ll
need:

• Melt and pour soap base. Shop our range.
• Fragrance oil or essential oils
• Mould, soap cutter, spatula, pouring pitch / microwavable container, cutting surface.
• Microwave.
• Isopropyl alcohol: in a spray bottle.
• Optional: mica powder and botanicals

Melt and pour soaps are a great activity to keep the kids entertained because they’re so easy to make! Simply cut up the soap base into small pieces then microwave in small increments to melt (alternatively melt on low heat on the stove). Once the soap has melted, stir through fragrance and any additives (mica powder, dyes or botanicals). Pour melted soap into your soap mould, then spray with isopropyl alcohol. Leave in mould to set.

Yes! Our soap bases are 100% natural, so they naturally produce a lather when in water. Please expect less lather compared to a synthetic soap base. Adding additional oils into the mixture can cause less lathering to occur. We recommend not adding more than 2% extra oils into the melted soap mixture.

We find that the easiest way to melt these soap bases is in the microwave. It's recommended that you melt in 20-30 second
intervals, stirring in-between these intervals. Alternatively, the soap can be melted on the stove-top on a low-medium heat, stirring regularly. Be careful not to overheat in both methods.

Our soap bases come in 900gm blocks. This fills our rectangle silicone soap mould being 6 x 150gm bars of soaps. Purchase
our soap making kits here. Bulk buying our soap blocks is also available in g blocks.

We have three soap bases available including goats’ milk, crystal clear and white. All our soap bases have different
properties, it all comes down to preference. The properties are as followed:

Goats milk base: This soap base is known for its added moisturising benefit. The base is smooth and silky for skin softening qualities. Our soap base is a creamy colour and sets a creamy colour.

White base: Our white soap base has moisturising properties. It is a good option to use when you start out making soaps and trying different techniques. The white soap base is a creamy colour, like the goat's milk soap base.

Crystal clear: the clear soap base has a different aesthetic to the other options. It is a good base to use when adding botanicals and mica powders as it is clear.

Before you start making melt and pour soaps, ensure all equipment is cleaned with warm soapy water and spray isopropyl alcohol to sanitise.

Once it comes to clean up, it is easiest to wait until the remaining soap in the pouring pitcher is cooled to a warm
temperature. At this point, the leftover soap can be mostly peeled off. This can be used as a tester if required. Warm water can be used to rinse away the
remaining soap. Use a brush to wash away the leftover soap pieces, these need to be dissolved to avoid the drain being temporarily blocked.

Any leftover fragrance cannot be directly poured into the sink. This could damage the pipes. Start by wiping as much fragrance oil out with a paper towel then wipe down with isopropyl alcohol.
Wash out with warm soapy water to remove the smell of the fragrance. The soap moulds can be cleaned in the dishwasher or hand washed with warm soapy water. Make sure you dry the moulds straight after to extend the lifetime of the silicone.

We don’t recommend adding any of our candle dyes into the soap base mixture due to it potentially dying your skin. Small amounts of mica powder can be added to the mixture to colour and shimmer added. To avoid the powder from clumping in the soap, a small amount of isopropyl can be used to combine nicely.

Yes, botanicals are a great addition, they can add an exfoliant and luxury to your soaps. It is recommended to do plenty of testing before adding botanicals into big batches to ensure you achieve the aesthetic you’d like. Over time many botanicals can turn brown in the soaps. One flower that holds its colour is the calendula flower. There is a very minimal chance that mould will develop in the soap.

Yes, additives like almond oil or shea butter are good options to add. Be sure to not add any extra than 2% of the total weight as the excess oil can cause the soap bar to soften and not last as long. It can also decrease the amount of lather that the soap can produce.

Massage soap bars have large round nodules that stick out from the bar that can be used to relieve tension and achy
muscles. By rubbing the soap over your skin, the nodules help lift pore clogging oils and can stimulate circulation to tighten skin. As well as this our soap bases are highly moisturising that lathers onto the skin leaving you feeling smooth and clean.

Our melt and pour soap bases will not go bad if stored correctly. Over time the base may dry out slightly which will not affect the usage of the soap. If you’d like to fix that, glycerine can be used to replace the moisture.

All three of our soap bases are cruelty free. Our white and crystal-clear soaps are vegan however our goats milk soap base is not suitable for vegans due to the inclusion of animal derived products.

Our melt and pour soap bases will not turn brown on their own without the addition of fragrances or colouring. The bases left alone won’t go bad if they are stored properly. Fragrances, particularly ones with natural colouring can alter the appearance of the soap when combined with other colours. Flavours such as citrus, floral and vanilla have the tendency to alter the soap's colour. We recommend making small practice soaps before committing to large scale soap making when trying new fragrances or colour additives.

Our massage soap bar mould has an intricate shape and therefore you may struggle to get the soap out of the mould.  Here’s some tips on how to get the soap out
without anything breaking or cracking:

• The worst thing to do if you are struggling to get the soap out is to force it out. Make sure you wait at least 24 hours before trying to get the soap out. Start putting slight pressure on the sides of the mould, slightly pulling away at the sides.
• The soap may still be stuck after a 24 hour wait. If this happens, place the soap moulds in the freezer for 30 minutes then remove and let thaw for a few minutes before trying to remove the soap from the mould.
• Another option is to spray the mould with cooking spray before putting the soap into the mould. This option will not work for cold process soaps, the oil will cause the soap to stick more.

Bubbles are formed when the additives are being stirred into the melted soap mixture. To ensure that your soap has a smooth surface is by spraying the soap with isopropyl alcohol from a spray bottle when the soap has just been poured. This should settle the bubbles. If you don’t have the alcohol available, mixing the additives slowly, less vigorously should settle the soap mixture as well as pouring the mixture slowly will cause less bubbles created.

Reed diffusers are as easy as one, two, three! What you’ll need:

• Diffuser base
• Fragrance oil
• Diffuser jar and reed sticks

If you’re a beginner, we recommend one of our diffuser making kits. These include everything you need to make one diffuser with packaging.

Diffusers are a good activity to do with friends and family! They’re so simple to make yet a great addition to your home. To get started you’ll need to measure your diffuser stick to your diffuser jar to get the right match. Read our blog for more information on this: Making your own diffusers at home: tips tricks and equipment. Next, combine the diffuser base with fragrance oil, mix and pour into the jar. Place diffuser sticks into the jar then flip them after an hour.

You can use any of our fragrance oils, natural fragrance oils and essential oils to add scent to your reed diffuser.

Recommended ratios when mixing fragrance oils to NZCS Premium Reed Diffuser is 20%. If a stronger scent is required 25%
can be added, often larger rooms require an increased fragrance ratio.

Fragrance oils:

• 100ml bottle of base – add 20 - 25 mls fragrance oil.
• 250ml bottle of base – add 50 - 60 mls fragrance oil.
• 500ml bottle of base – add 100 - 120 mls fragrance oil.
• 1 Litre bottle of base – add 200 - 250 mls of fragrance oil.

Essential oils:

• STRONG 0-25 drops of essential oil
• SUBTLE 10-12 drops of essential oil

Always ensure its glass and has no cracks or chips. As fragrance oils, essential oils and reed diffuser base will strip varnish of polished surfaces and may damage delicate surfaces. Always wipe the diffuser jar with a soft dry cloth before placing it on delicate surfaces.                                                                 

There are many different factors that determine how long reed diffuser oils last. This includes size of jar, humidity, heating, draughts, direct sunlight, and the width and length of the reeds. Please conduct your own testing to let your customers know an accurate lifetime of your diffusers.

Always ensure the reeds are twice as tall as your diffuser, this ensures good distribution of fragrance. If the sticks are too long and your creation looks unbalanced, trim the sticks before placing fragrance into the jar. You can check out our reed sticks here.

We recommend the reed sticks are flipped once weekly. This will continue the aroma of the fragrance oil diffusing through the room. If the reeds are not flipped regularly, you run the risk of the sticks drying up and gathering dust, preventing the fragrance oil from diffusing.

The diffuser base and fragrance oils are not safe to ingest. We recommend wearing gloves to prevent the oils getting into contact with your skin. We also recommend you place down newspaper to protect the surface. Be careful not to tip over the diffuser at any time as it can damage some surfaces. Keep out of reach from children and pets.

No, we don’t recommend re-using diffuser sticks. Over-time the diffuser sticks will collect dust which can clog the sticks. This will prevent it from diffusing and therefore you will not achieve a desirable outcome of your creation.

Like candles, you need to ensure that you have added enough fragrance oil. We recommend 20-25% of the total weight. Other factors that may decrease your scent throw is the size and airflow in the room. We recommend placing your diffuser in a small room with either a window or door open to diffuse the scent through the room. Finally, if your reed sticks have not been flipped regularly or been re-used, they will grow dust and prevent the fragrance from diffusing. We advise you to flip the reed sticks once a week and only use them for one diffuser to get the highest scent throw.

No, you cannot use fragrance oils in an electric air diffuser. We recommend using essential oils following the manufacturer’s
instructions. For the correct scent throw we advise adding around 2-3 drops of essential oils into our aroma diffuser.

Make sure water did not get into the base. We recommend washing the diffuser jar and drying fully before you start making your diffuser. This also applies for the jug you are using to mix and pour the diffuser mixture.

Most of our jars have the option to buy with or without the lid. Jars such as our macaron collection and vintage cut collection have no option without the lid.

The dimension of your jar is found by measuring the width along the top of your jar. The dimensions of all our jars
are available in the product description on our website. You’ll need to know the diameter of your jar to find the right wick size. We also have a recommendation on which wick would work for each candle jar we have available in the product description on the product page.

All our glass jars and containers we have are very strong, thick and complies with ASTM 2179 AND 2147 testing methods.
(Ensures glass can withstand heat and has no cracks or fractures). Be sure to follow the burning instructions. Reusing a jar can weaken the strength of the glass.

We do not recommend using the steel jug on the stove. We recommend heating the wax or soap base on a pot or in the
microwave, then pouring into the steel jug.

Yes! The plastic jug can be used in the microwave to heat wax or soap bases. We recommend heating in 30 second increments then mixing in-between until it is melted.

All our packaging is ready made; we do not offer any custom design services. We have box sizes that are suited for certain diffuser and candle jars.

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